ROSETTE GERDAN AS AN EXAMPLE OF THE EURASIAN MIGRATION PROCESSES OF GLASS JEWELLERY

Abstract

The article examines the genesis of the rosette gerdan breast ornament, searching for the origins of the form, the ways of migration and its use on the territory of Ukraine.
The analysis of the etymology of the name «gerdan» (Burkic. «gerden» 3 neck) has revealed the primary location of the decoration, which is associated with the Central Asian cultural region. In Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan, a common piece of jewellery is the zebi-gardon (Burkic for «chest jewellery»). The similarity of the artistic features of the gerdan and zebi-gardon allowed us to put forward a hypothesis about the Turkic origins of the compositional solution of Ukrainian jewellery. After all, by the 15 th century, the time of the Ottomans' active expansion into Ukraine, jewellery of a different design, such as the hryvnia and monisto, was widespread.
A review of the historical contacts of Turkic peoples has revealed the routes of migration of the gerdan caused by the spread of the Ottoman Empire's power from the late 15th to the 17 th century to the southwestern part of Ukraine, as well as Moldova and Romania. The territory of the original location from which the rosette gerdan form spread was identified: Podillia, Pokuttya, Southern Hutsulshchyna, Bukovyna (Vinnytsia, the centre and south of Khmelnytskyi, southern Ternopil, southern Ivano-Frankivsk, and Chernivtsi regions).
On the basis of the analysis of Eurasian contacts, the hypothesis of the appearance of the rosette gerdan on the territory of Ukraine in the 18 th century is proved. It has been found that the origin of the men's basma gerdan has archaic Asian roots, as a derivative of the Turkic bais0 («imprint») 3 a lexeme for a letter of trust, a symbol of power of the Tatar-Mongol khans of the 13 th-15 th centuries.
The author proposes the concept of gerdan decoration as a multicultural object, in which archaic local traditions of creating coloured glass decorations have absorbed Turkic linguistic and artistic and constructive principles as a result of Eurasian migration processes.