GENDER IVERSIONS IN MODERN FASHION PRACTICES (UKRAINIAN EXPERIENCE)
Abstract
The aim of the article is to identify and analyze the main directions of gender inversions in the visual practices of Haute couture and mass fashion in modern Ukraine. Inversions of the traditional standards of femininity and masculinity are considered in the context of global gender transformations.
Methodology of the research. The methodological basis of the study has an interdisciplinary nature, which allows to highlight the features of gender transformations in modern fashion practices. Culturological approach is supported by gender analysis. Various studies of gender as a sociocultural phenomenon and gender inversions in particular have been considered (by the authorship of Z. Bauman, S. de Bovuar, T. Hundorova, A. Kikot, T. Martseniuk A. Rakhman, etc.). The use of a semiotic approach made it possible to analyze gender representations in visual fashion practices, to identify gender markers and their pragmatic aspect. Content analysis helped to study the reception of gender transformations in media materials.
Result. Ukrainian fashion is a cultural space and a set of visual practices that allow to reveal and analyze gender transformations in the consciousness of Ukrainian society. Fashion turns out to be sensitive to general cultural trends, while other spheres of Ukrainian culture are more conservative. The research results demonstrate the driving role of gender inversions in the process of gender transformations and even sociocultural changes.
The analysis made it possible to highlight the main directions in which the inversions of gender and corporeality are manifested in fashion practices: inversions within the traditional gender standards of femininity (female body parameters, age parameters, physical health parameters); movement towards androgyny (mixing traditional gender markers of femininity and masculinity); movement towards gender neutrality (an attempt to get rid of gender markers as such).
The author of the article came to the conclusion that the effect of tradition and gender norms in modern Ukrainian culture turns out to be stronger and more resistant in relation to masculine gender.
The scientific novelty. The main directions in which the inversions of gender and corporeality manifest themselves in modern fashionable practices have been established. This principle can be applied to the study of other sociocultural spheres. Understanding of gender inversion in the cultural dimension will expand the problem field of domestic cultural studies.
Practical value. The results of the research are relevant for employees of the socio-cultural sphere (in particular, organizers of lectures on gender issues, gender equality), for gender activists, for authors of fashion overviews, etc.
